Like other machine components, the rubber tracks on a small track loader (CTL) or skid steer eventually wear out. Replace the tracks right away if you see any wear and tear to increase the effectiveness of your machine and prevent any catastrophes. Learn from below how to spot worn-out tracks, replace them to optimize their lifetime span.
Overview of CTL and Skid Steer Tracks
For many other equipment, rubber tracks that CTLs and certain skid steer loaders ride on let operators travel distances that are difficult or impossible. Great flotation qualities and minimal ground pressure on these undercarriage systems assist in safeguarding fragile concrete surfaces and grass. They also allow drivers operate on moist, mushy terrain that would cause most equipment to sink and have great grip in ice and snow.
How Long Do Rubber Tracks Last on a Skid Steer or CTL?
Keeping your rubber tracks in excellent shape is the primary maintenance concern for CTLs, as this is the machine’s most costly wear component. CTL and skid steer maintenance practices aren’t difficult, but neglecting them could lead to negative consequences. Depending on how well you take care of your tracks, they could last anywhere between 400 hours and 2,000 hours. The average life span ranges from 1,200 hours to 1,600 hours.
How long your tracks last depends on two primary factors—site conditions and the skill of the operator:
1. The Hardness of the Surface On-Site
The length of your tracks depends much on the state of the surface your CTL or skid steer runs on. For example, harder surfaces generate greater wear and abrasion; rocky surfaces create chipping and cutting. Sand or soft soil surfaces are much more mild on tracks.
Remember, this can greatly shorten the life of your tracks if you want to operate a CTL or skid steer with tracks on a very hard terrain, including shale. Under such circumstances, you would want to consider whether your project really requires a CTL. Never drive over rocks, rebar, or roots either. Review the location before starting any construction and eliminate any dangers to stop running over them.
2. The Operator’s Skill
Although the particular project will decide the site circumstances, the operations of the machine will be within your control. You may run a CTL or skid steer regularly without harm when ground conditions are less hazardous, like dirt, sand or mud. More hostile circumstances call for a qualified operator to minimize equipment wear.
Keep these ideas in mind if you want to use a CTL or skid steer in more dangerous terrain conditions:
- Avoid excessive counter-rotation and spinning: Make Y-turns, regardless of the brand of CTL or tracks you use.
- Don’t run side-slope: This will wear down the imbedded downhill-side lugs. Found on the idlers and driving sprocket, flanges ensure the track stays coupled to the undercarriage. Side-slope running might cause the machine to de-track if the tension on the track is not enough tight. We advise the tracks to run straight up and down a hill rather than across its lengthwise whenever at all practicable.
- Soften hard surfaces with dirt or sand: On hard surfaces, such as asphalt or concrete, think about covering top with some mud, sand or another soft substance. This prevents skirting and helps your tracks glide.
- Approach obstacles head-on: When negotiating a curb or other barrier, approach it squarely. Particularly at the margins, you run more chance of the track breaking if you strike a curb and it is not head-on.
How Tight Should Skid Steer Tracks Be?
Pouring in or removing oil stored in a cylinder allows you to change the tension in the tracks on most CTLs or skid steers. Pushing the front idlers and driving sprocket apart, adding extra lubricant to this cylinder may cause Let some go, and the strain or the tracks will be taken out.
Your ground condition will determine how tight or loose your track runs. Operating their CTL in sand, for instance, a person may adjust the tension on their track to be looser, as it would greatly minimize the wear and strain on the sprocket and metal embeds on the track. Working on difficult ground, an operator may set their tracks tighter to prevent pebbles and trash from causing the tracks to slip off.
Knowing the ground conditions and the application helps you to adjust the tension. See your user handbook for specifics on getting your track back on the skid steer if the track comes off.
While basic, changing track tension on your CTL is rather crucial. In a hard, deep-wooded area, for example, loose tracks might break idlers. Every 10 or so hours you should check and clean the undercarriage and tracks as material may gather and end up close and in the idlers. Regular small item cleaning helps to reduce the amount of trash passing through.
Some original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) will provide particular track sagging measuring guidelines. Under other circumstances, it relies on the track feel. Once again, the key is to check the tension around 10-hour intervals. Stretched too tightly, tracks lead your machine to consume more than necessary, therefore naturally using more gasoline and horsepower.
When Should You Replace Skid Steer Tracks?
External track damage, worn-out sprockets, inadequate or too high tension, and dangerous tread depth are the most prevalent indicators of wear and tear—often meaning the tracks are toward the end of their functional lifetime.
1. Exterior Track Damage
Usually the first indication you should repair your rubber tracks is damage to the external track, such as missing lugs, cracked or exposed cables. The exterior of the tracks of CTLs and skid steer loaders is very prone to damage given their continuous usage on rocky and uneven ground.
Should your CTL be continuously running over curbs or scratching walls, the track exteriors may also suffer. Although approaching curbs could cause de-tracking, the tension these curbs provide finally damages the outer track.
Leaving their equipment in direct sunlight is a typical error that contractors make that could cause dry-rotted tracks. Additionally, you may see stress scars and breaks on the tracks. Replace your tracks right away if you see any of these indicators, even little outside fractures, to prevent total track failure.
2. Worn-out Sprockets
Your sprockets’ condition may also tell you if your rubber tracks should be changed. Sprockets deteriorate more quickly than any other track component due to a hydraulic motor running the CTL. Indices of worn-out sprockets consist in:
- Sprocket teeth are pointed or hooked and no longer round.
- Sprockets are derailing.
- Sprockets are sloppily interlocking and skipping over lugs.
Should you find missing drive links on the bottom of your rubber track, worn-out sprockets are most likely to blame. Missing drive links on rubber tracks might cause the loader to slide, therefore reducing its efficiency. Watch your sprockets to make sure you replace your tracks before a major issue arises.
3. Insufficient or Excessive Tension
The rubber tracks’ propensity to stretch over time explains why your loader’s tracks seem to have lost some of their tension. Your rubber tracks will start to leap off the undercarriage if they have too little tension. Certain operators can inadvertently tighten their tracks, which causes major problems like track rips, power loss and too high idler bearing wear.
This means you should check the tension of your tracks every day, or at least once every five days. Rising the frame of the track off the ground and looking at the sag between the top of the track lug and the track roller can help you to determine the tension. Instead of trying to offset the lack of tension by overtightening the tracks, replace them.
4. Unsafe Tread Depth
Furthermore, crucial is checking the tread depth of your rubber tracks. To guarantee enough grip and stability, you should replace the rubber tracks on your loaders like you change the tires on your automobile when the tread has flattened. On fresh rubber tracks, the tread depth usually comes around one inch. Finding the tread depth tells you how much grip your tracks still have. For example, your tracks would most likely have a tread depth of around 3/8 inch if they are halfway through their lifetime.
Finding the Best Replacement Tracks
Eventually you will have to replace your tracks, regardless of how well you maintain them. Choosing the same kind and brand as the original equipment for the machine guarantees the fastest choice when looking for the correct track to replace current ones. Spend some time before doing this evaluating how your original tunes fared at your work locations. If your machine lets you better fit your requirements, you might want to change the rubber composition, tread patterns, or breadth.
To find the best track for your CTL or skid steer, consider the following:
- The two main tread forms are the block-style tread and the multibar tread, also referred to as “turf tread,” which has horizontal straight lines. Although turf treads seldom impact the surface, in a forestry, mining, or quarry setting you should use a block-style tread to withstand chipping, abrasion, and punctures. For completed surfaces, landscapers also have nonmarking tracks as well as smooth tracks free of tread. In colder climates, CTL owners occasionally utilize block-style treads for summer work and bar lug treads to plow snow.
- For small working widths, use profile tracks. For example, landscapers need less of a footprint and fewer tools and operate in confined areas. If the machine width is not a factor, think about using a wide track to increase surface area and traction.
- Warranty: You should receive at least a 1,000-hour warranty regardless of the tracks you purchase.
A universal design is absent. Though aftermarket brands are an option, bear in mind no “universal” track design exists. This is so because OEM undercarriages with a range of roller, flange, and sprocket designs control the internal component configuration of the track.
Steps to Replace Tracks
Before you replace the rubber tracks on your machine, make sure you’re prepared with the following tips and tools:
- Install the rubber tracks in an open area: This will allow you to maneuver easily around the machine.
- Install the tracks on a flat surface: You want a clutter-free work surface so you can finish the job efficiently.
- Have certain devices on hand: These include support stands, heavy-duty lifts, and jacks.
- Have specific tools handy: You may need specific tools to help remove machine components or install track belts.
- Don’t forget your safety gear: This includes safety boots, gloves, glasses, and visibility vests if needed.
Use the following steps for installing tracks on your CTL:
- Release tension: Verify first that your tracks fit the equipment type you are using and that they are the correct ones. To release the grease fitting, then, use a wrench. Then gently push in the idler frame to let the oil out of the fit, thus detensioning the track.
- Suspend the track: raise your equipment slowly from the ground, then hang it by laying supports underneath it. Using a heavy-duty jack shields the hydraulic system of the device.
- Take off the old track: Make sure nothing or someone close might cause mishaps. Next, take the track off the front idler. Cut the track off the scooter next. Take the track totally far from the machine. Having someone else assist you will make this job easier.
- Examine the parts: Inspect the undercarriage for any damage or heavy wear, including the roller, frame, and sprocket.
- Install the new rubber tracks: Place the new track over the rear idler and sprocket and then onto the front idlers to ensure the track is aligned in the proper grooves.
- Align tracks: tighten the previously loosened grease fitting in step one. Apply grease to the fitting until the track is properly tensioned.
- Ensure correct movement: To ensure the machine is running as it should, lower it and test drive both forward and backward. To guarantee correct mounting of the tracks, keep in mind to daily check the track tension and test operation.
Can Rubber Tracks Be Repaired?
Your tracks can probably be fixed if the rubber on them only shows surface fractures. Still, most of the time you should see this repair as just temporary. Should the damage be more severe and the steel cord be beginning to break, you should replace the whole set.